Buttons on Clocks have stopped working

Has anyone actually managed to fix a set of clocks where the buttons have stopped working, im going to have a bash this weekend. I've got a decent idea of what ot do since i design pcb's for a living but any tips are welcome.

Also could well be after a new set of clocks if it do sent work out.

 

Hammer ?

 

which size? do i go for a love tap with the mallet or give it the big "have this ya bastard" with the sledge hammer?

 

Wd40 and a fibre pen.

 

If it's really putting up resistance & you're struggling with Deegee's crowbar, I've got a JCB with a jaw bucket that should help gain access..

 

Had 2 675's in 5 months, both with water ingress into clocks.... good luck...

 

I reckon that jaw bucket should just about prize it off StM

 

I know this is an old thread, but somebody might have the same problem or search for it on this forum in the future.
My instrument panel buttons didn't work when I bought the bike so I dismantled it, spotted some very fine corrosion on one of the tracks and repaired it with kynar wire as shown. I could have scraped the track bare and repaired it directly, but this was quick and easy. Reassembled with vaseline.

 

Sorry, I know this is an old thread but how did you guys get on with these repairs...

My issue is there is no.... bounce back or contact it seems in the button shown... I have taken the PCB out and its the same...

is there anyone you guys could recommend, Near the Staines area if possible that could fix this...?

 

Although soldering in a replacement micro switch would be very straightforward, I could envisage that identifying & obtaining exactly the same switch to go in place of the problem unit may be challenging.?
Have you tried a little WD40 onto the switch itself.? (If it doesn't free it, and it's going to be removed anyway, you may as well try imho).

 

Not sure WD40 is the answer sadly.... I could be wrong
But I had the board out and there was no spring/bounce back like in the other 2.
I will give it a spray though, you never know.

But if that doesn't work does anyone know where I could get it fixed?

 

Clive Wood has made similar repairs in the past. Drop him a line. He'll soon tell you what's possible. Helpful guy.

 

What year are they mate? I know they look like generation 1 but they were also fitted to early generation 2 bikes.

 

It’s a 2008..

 

You've done the hard part taking it to pieces, why not just solder in a replacement push button, they look fairly standard from the picture something like these maybe.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/6mm-x-6m...7e2:m:mbLtppf3HVaRdDaLUu-9A9g&redirect=mobile

 

That's the one... I wouldn't know how to remove the old one and have no soldering experience unfortunately

 

As long as there are no surface Mount components on the reverse side of the PCB near the push button connections you should be fine.
You wouldn't need to spend much money, something like this would be ok, as it includes a desoldering tool in the kit.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Adjustab...443fca7e86:g:JWcAAOSw1oJdDKRq&redirect=mobile
I would snip the legs off the push button so you can deal with them individually and not have to worry about freeing them all at once, clean the soldering iron tip and apply a bit of solder to "tin" the end, then melt the appropriate connection on the reverse of the board and remove the solder with the desoldering pump. This may take a bit of practice to get right but the trick is not to leave the soldering iron on for more than a few seconds as if you overheat the PCB you could lift the tracks from the board. That size of connection should melt virtually the instant the soldering iron is applied to it, if it doesn't you haven't tinned the solder iron tip correctly or need to change the angle you're applying the iron. Once you've removed the solder just press the soldering iron tip against the leg to heat it up and it should fall out of the PCB or be removed with needle nose pliers.
Use the very point of the soldering iron just make sure the holes are clear of solder before fitting the new button, then resolder the connections, remember less is more when it comes to soldering on pcbs you don't need a big massive blob of solder, again make sure your soldering iron is clean and tinned and it should take a split second.
Then sit back and admire your handy work and the fact you've learnt a new skill and saved some money at the same time

If you don't feel confident you could always post it to me and I'll do it for nothing

 

That is a seriously brilliant guide and assist.
I may look at posting only because IF I did fudge it up... Its an expensive replacement.

Where about in the country try are you?

 

I have no problem doing it if you're sure it'll be safe in the post.
I'm miles away in Wigan unfortunately.