675.cc • Triumph 675 Forum

Buttons on Clocks have stopped working

Discussion in 'Maintenance & Tweaks' started by vandernator, Jun 21, 2013.

  1. vandernator

    vandernator

    Thread Starter

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    Has anyone actually managed to fix a set of clocks where the buttons have stopped working, im going to have a bash this weekend. I've got a decent idea of what ot do since i design pcb's for a living but any tips are welcome.

    Also could well be after a new set of clocks if it do sent work out.
     
  2. vandernator

    vandernator

    Thread Starter

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    which size? do i go for a love tap with the mallet or give it the big "have this ya bastard" with the sledge hammer? :p
     
  3. Deegee

    Deegee Moderator Staff Member

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    Start with a toffee hammer and work your way up, I've got a 14lb sledgehammer if you get stuck and I also have a 3ft crowbar if the switches don't want to come away from the pcb later on in the repair. ;)
     
  4. Wd40 and a fibre pen.
     
  5. StMarks

    StMarks PTG

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    If it's really putting up resistance & you're struggling with Deegee's crowbar, I've got a JCB with a jaw bucket that should help gain access..
    [​IMG]
     
  6. pesky164

    pesky164

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    Had 2 675's in 5 months, both with water ingress into clocks.... good luck...
     
  7. vandernator

    vandernator

    Thread Starter

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    I reckon that jaw bucket should just about prize it off StM :p
     
  8. I know this is an old thread, but somebody might have the same problem or search for it on this forum in the future.
    My instrument panel buttons didn't work when I bought the bike so I dismantled it, spotted some very fine corrosion on one of the tracks and repaired it with kynar wire as shown. I could have scraped the track bare and repaired it directly, but this was quick and easy. Reassembled with vaseline.

    IMG_20151001_142507468_HDR[1].jpg

    IMG_20151001_142500099[1].jpg
     
    Last edited: Nov 25, 2015
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  9. Jay311275

    Jay311275

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    Sorry, I know this is an old thread but how did you guys get on with these repairs...

    My issue is there is no.... bounce back or contact it seems in the button shown... I have taken the PCB out and its the same...

    is there anyone you guys could recommend, Near the Staines area if possible that could fix this...?
    Daytona Clock_LI.jpg PCB_LI (2).jpg
     
  10. StMarks

    StMarks PTG

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    Although soldering in a replacement micro switch would be very straightforward, I could envisage that identifying & obtaining exactly the same switch to go in place of the problem unit may be challenging.?
    Have you tried a little WD40 onto the switch itself.? (If it doesn't free it, and it's going to be removed anyway, you may as well try imho).
     
  11. Jay311275

    Jay311275

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    Not sure WD40 is the answer sadly.... I could be wrong
    But I had the board out and there was no spring/bounce back like in the other 2.
    I will give it a spray though, you never know.

    But if that doesn't work does anyone know where I could get it fixed?
     
  12. SW73

    SW73

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    Location: Sunderland
    Clive Wood has made similar repairs in the past. Drop him a line. He'll soon tell you what's possible. Helpful guy.
     
  13. What year are they mate? I know they look like generation 1 but they were also fitted to early generation 2 bikes.
     
  14. Jay311275

    Jay311275

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    It’s a 2008..
     
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  15. Jay311275

    Jay311275

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  16. As long as there are no surface Mount components on the reverse side of the PCB near the push button connections you should be fine.
    You wouldn't need to spend much money, something like this would be ok, as it includes a desoldering tool in the kit.
    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Adjustab...443fca7e86:g:JWcAAOSw1oJdDKRq&redirect=mobile
    I would snip the legs off the push button so you can deal with them individually and not have to worry about freeing them all at once, clean the soldering iron tip and apply a bit of solder to "tin" the end, then melt the appropriate connection on the reverse of the board and remove the solder with the desoldering pump. This may take a bit of practice to get right but the trick is not to leave the soldering iron on for more than a few seconds as if you overheat the PCB you could lift the tracks from the board. That size of connection should melt virtually the instant the soldering iron is applied to it, if it doesn't you haven't tinned the solder iron tip correctly or need to change the angle you're applying the iron. Once you've removed the solder just press the soldering iron tip against the leg to heat it up and it should fall out of the PCB or be removed with needle nose pliers.
    Use the very point of the soldering iron just make sure the holes are clear of solder before fitting the new button, then resolder the connections, remember less is more when it comes to soldering on pcbs you don't need a big massive blob of solder, again make sure your soldering iron is clean and tinned and it should take a split second.
    Then sit back and admire your handy work and the fact you've learnt a new skill and saved some money at the same time:smileup:

    If you don't feel confident you could always post it to me and I'll do it for nothing:D
     
    Last edited: Dec 9, 2019 at 9:00 PM
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