675.cc • Triumph 675 Forum

front fork upgrade

Discussion in 'Other' started by g6xer, Mar 13, 2018.

  1. g6xer

    g6xer

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    good afternoon all,
    I'm running 2013 forks 41mm on a 2008 bike but i think its time to now upgrade them a little.
    what is the most cost effective way to upgrade and who have you used to do this?

    cheers
    Paul
     
  2. Jimbo 675

    Jimbo 675

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    Hi Paul , im not sure if the 2013 forks are different from the 2009 forks i've worked on but the first step would be a respring (linear) to suit your weight and 5wt fork oil with a 110mm airgap.
    Whilst your at it you could have the hydraulic bottom outs removed from the fork cartridge to cured the patter sensation when deep into the forks stroke.
    The next step would be revalve and/ or piston kit from a company like race tech or k tech,
    Or even a full cartridge kit if your pockets are deep enough.
    I've found Gareth from reactive suspension in york to be nothing short of excellent in his work and a plesure to deal with.
     
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  3. Keith15

    Keith15

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    Some good options there ^. It really depends on your budget and what sort of riding you'll be doing.
     
  4. g6xer

    g6xer

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    Cheers gents
    Basically I'm a track day rider at intermediate to fast with standard forks
    I have nothing else to upgrade really and wasn't sure what gains I'd get.
    Spoke to mct and got quoted 350 +vat for springs service and new valves
    I've been looking for 675R forks as a way forward but they are silly money
     
  5. The 2013 forks were always marketed as being Kayaba’s interpretation of the ‘big piston’ forks that Showa released in 2009, so there may be subtle differences. I personally found a big improvement in road feel when I switched my 2009 to linear springs and fitted a k-tech 20ssk flow valve kit as it not only offered more adjustment which I may have used for more spirited track work, but it just changed the response on rough but not bumpy roads and roundabouts and just made everything more pleasant. That came to around £370 a few years back and was well worth it
     
  6. Keith15

    Keith15

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    I think a set of fettled Kayaba forks would be better than a set of bog stock Ohlins forks so don't get too hung up on spending £1,000 on a pair. I raced on a set of ZX10R forks with K-Tech SSK kit and they did me proud so I can certainly recommend those. I know MCT's reputation too and you won't go far wrong.
     
  7. g6xer

    g6xer

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    it sounds like a perfect solution to me and wont break the bank .. further to this would a better suspension help with wrist fatigue, i struggle with it after most sessions
    I've turned my bars right out which has helped a lot but i do still suffer.
     
  8. Keith15

    Keith15

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    I doubt it would help much unless your bike's shaking its head everywhere. Arm fatigue is usually caused by gripping too tightly with your hands and arms. Gripping more with your legs helps, fit Stompgrips or similar if you haven't already done so.

    Apologies if you've already done this but it's a trap every track rider has probably fallen into.
     
  9. g6xer

    g6xer

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    My front end pretty good to be honest have a decent damper as Well
    Its mainly my wrists as I have to strap them quite hard
    I have stomp grips so it's one of 2 things either gripping too hard and not using my legs or just an old git lol
    Probably the later
     
    • Funny Funny x 1
  10. Jimbo 675

    Jimbo 675

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    Turning the bars out does really help on the Daytona with arm pump on track with myself personally. Just out of curiosity do you have rearsets fitted, they made a big difference in how i use my legs/ move across the bike.
     
  11. g6xer

    g6xer

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    Morning jimbo
    Yes mate plus I have a big bum stop to keep me forward on the bike
    I think it's just the angle of the bars plus I brake so hard.
    Reading all the posts it think what I'm doing now is gripping to hard when braking which is putting more pressure on a bent wrist if that makes sense
    I was just wondering if a fork upgrade would in fact make it a little easier on my wrists.
    Perhaps there may be clip ons out there you can Taylor exact to.your riding stance but haven't found any just yet
     
  12. I've never found any either that look any good. Some have mentioned swapping the handlebars over to make the ends higher as often its the drop of the handlebar that causes the wrist pain. I've not done it though so you will need to investigate. The other option is 'Helibars' which are really good from what I'm told but uber expensive.
     
  13. g6xer

    g6xer

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    cheers phil,
    I'm actually going to look into that because that's exactly what i think is causing the problem.
    i think if the rolled up it will help.
    ;)
     
  14. g6xer

    g6xer

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    jesus, they are expensive :eek::eek::eek::eek::eek:
     
  15. Yep.... maybe try the bar swap thing, costs nothing to try
     
  16. g6xer

    g6xer

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    Well the forks are coming off anyway so worth a proper look
     
  17. g6xer

    g6xer

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  18. Jimbo 675

    Jimbo 675

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    When I spoke to gareth evans who is the main guy at reactive suspension he said the ohlins fork on the R model aren't the best for track use, he couldn't dial in a great setup and says they need revalving as standard, and he's not the type of bloke to sell you something you don't need.
    I'd go down the revalving of your standard forks route, MCT have a solid reputation too even if I'm a fan of reactive suspension.
     
  19. g6xer

    g6xer

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    That's the road I'm going down now plus it's more cost effective
    Mct said if I had money to burn then get the whole kit but a standard rider like me wouldn't really notice the difference between that or just a valve and spring upgrade
    The cost difference is about 500 quid.
    So on reflection revalve resprung and service 370 +vat has to be the way forward
    So forks are coming off tomorrow
    :)
     
  20. PyroUK

    PyroUK

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    Hey,

    Got naff all to do with the suspension but your wrists....

    Have you realigned your levers?

    If you've got a mate and stands, get your bike up and sit on it in your hard braking position (also works for road use in your normal riding position) put your hands on the bars with your thumb round and hold your fingers straight out.

    If you have to lift them to rest on the lever, loosen them and drop them down so it's in line and your fingers rest on top with your hand straight.

    This will give you more efficient pull on the levers, less pressure on the wrist and less work having to lift your fingers up amd over when braking or changing gear.

    Hth
     

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