I would heat the bolt directly with a mini butane torch if you have one, this should help release any threadlock that may be the problem, If you just heat the bolt itself I personally don't think there would be any significant heat transfer into the fork leg from that distance. If you're really paranoid then wrap a wet rag around the fork. While I agree about not cutting a slot maybe filing flats either side will give more purchase for the mole grips without weakening the remaining bolt too much. Other than that if you've already got a welder and you're handy with it then whack a nut on the end and it'll be out in a jiffy. now you've got the stand you could easily drop out the fork if you're worried about welding on the bike.
If that doesn’t work then I can’t imagine what will.If all else fails I have a fork leg you can have.Been sat in the garage a while but is in good condition.Not that it will come to that.
Cheers chaps - I think taking the fork leg out and working on it on in the horizontal will be easier an better. Yes, handy with a welder (rebuilt an old 72 VW camper a few years back and carried out the fabrication and welding myself) just never used on a bike.... Cheers
Fairly straightforward imho. Although fwiw I think that holding the fork leg securely without damaging it once removed may prove challenging, and doing so would be very much a last resort approach for me.
Thanks Managed it with no problem. As you said, fairly straightforward. Will think now about how best to tackle it (my use my local garage to have a look).
Took the forks to a local garage and they managed to remove the broken bolt, using mole grips but bigger and very old (they had no serration on the jaws) as he didn't want to use heat but after a good 10 minutes out it came: So, forks back in and the new mudguard fitted: Then got the fairing back on: Will have to get some spray paint as the mudguard is unfinished so once the weather (temperature) picks up I will be spraying it the matching colour. Thanks to everyone who offered advice etc
Glad it all turned out ok, carbon mudguard would have been nice and matched the 675R look of the colour scheme, but even more expensive if you forget the disk lock again See you've still not drunk all that booze yet, must have been very tempting each time the bolt wouldn't come out
Thanks. I was wondering if I should carbon rap the front mudguard instead of painting it the correct colour?
What about hydro dipped carbon effect, no idea about the cost though. Have you considered gloss black instead to match the lower fairing, would be easier than the crystal white, I colour coded my "eyelids" and it took a few attempts to get a match I was happy with, and that's a much smaller part.
On Saturday I replaced the brake fluid and then took it for a spin to makes sure all was good - a grand day it was, so sunny and warm:
What a brilliant excuse to go out for a spin. 500 miles and half a day later, are you sure that they're properly tested?
