Fitted Frank Thomas Heated Grips today Took 3 hours with 3 coffee breaks and loads of photo's Well here goes. 1. Set alarm in Ferry mode. Arm alarm, two flashes(indicating number of remotes allocated to alarm) then press grey button quick, indicators flash three more times. You can now crack on. 2. Open box of tricks and this is what you get 3. Tools required 5 mm Alan Key for fairing and tank, 8mm socket for Tank, Stanley knife for trimming and removing left grip. 4. Remove two alen bolts at top of tank, next remove bolt that holds tank in place under seat. Removing brass insert, I used end of a screwdriver at an angle. 5. Move tank over to one side, no need to take off fully just give yourself enough room to thread the cable along the same route as the wiring loom. 6. Then have a look were you prefer the control box, I looked at two places before opting for the second First on the infill, then at the side of the clocks. Second won hands down. 7. Time for a brew and pluck up courage to remove original grips well nervous as this is point of no return). 8. Then it was off with bar ends, right side a doddle left the whole lot came out as the alan key would just not budge. 9. The right grip just peeled ack and slid off but the left side would not move, so after half an hour of struggling out came Stanley to sort the stubborn git. 10. At this point I removed the left in fill but this should really have been done sooner. 11. I then slid the left grip on first, added the super glue and used a big plastic handled screwdriver to tap it home. Gutted got as far as the uber end and would not budge, had to twist it the rest of the way. Once on trim of the outer thin ring of rubber. I did it as I was putting it all back together but struggled do it now with no bar end in the way. 12. Now to right side, Stanley in hand, trim of the 4 lips that hold the grip in place. 13. Once off I screwed the Heated grip clockwise all the way to the top. At this point although the Frank Thomas looks good facing up you have to twist the grips forward so the end of the grips rubber which houses the wiring does not touch the brake or clutch leavers when operated. 14. After another coffee, I then spent 20 minutes threading first the power supply lead along the wiring loom and cable tying it along the way. Then the front left grip cable, feeding it along the side of the wiring and cable running round the inside of the fork. Try full lock to lock to ensure nothing is tight. Lastly the right cable which again I ran along the other cables running to the left. Took lots of pictures but when you’re doing it all makes sense I hope! and the pictures show very little like this one. 15. At this point I connected up the control unit. Attached cables to battery and had a test. Bingo Hot is not the word. 16. I then cut a piece off the mounting bracket so it fitted in the fairing using a bolt to the left of the clock. Perfect fit once Stanley had shaved a bit off to get the sock over the bolt. 17. Using belt and braces technique I used the glue pad and screws to mount the control unit on the bracket before bolting into position. 18. On the home straight now, bolted the command unit in place, tucked the connectors down the inside of the fuses under the infill, replaced tank, seat and infill. Tried lock to lock and Frank Thomas Heated Grips. DONE! As a foot note, If I had not been taking notes, taking over 30 pictures, and supping coffee it would have taken no more than 2 hours from start to finish. I wasted half an hour trying to slide left gip off, thought I could keep it but not to be. Other than that I for one am really pleased with the finished item. What do you folks think?