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How To Guides

Discussion in 'Comments, Suggestions & Site Questions' started by Godzilla, Nov 18, 2009.

  1. Godzilla

    Godzilla

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    Just an idea that we could have a topic where people could write a guide for doing mods. They could even be converted into pdf files and uploaded.
     
  2. Anonymous

    Anonymous Guest

  3. Craig

    Craig Administrator Staff Member

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    We've had a few tutorials posted in the forum's. Though for this to work it would have be mainly member driven. I would be more than happy to convert a how-to thread to a pdf and offer it for a download in a separate section, just a case of getting people to do it. *thinks a little*
     
  4. Just go over to 675.net go in to there mods section, copy and paste in a new thread over here. There is a bounty of info over there. If you have pondered it someone on that site has done it and wrote a pretty descriptive step by step. ;) Matter of fact here is a suspension thread I did for the stock setup I am quite proud of. Here is a link to the thread http://www.triumph675.net/forum/showthread.php?t=36414 And here is OP So many suspension threads. Same question (Starting point?) no amswer. Try this.
    For those like me that would rather learn the science and or mechanics of mods, maintenance & repairs. In my opinion as long as you are trying to educate your self before and during these tasks it is more beneficial than just trying to save$$. In almost every suspension thread started by a member who would like to attempt to make adjustments for a better ride or just to learn more about the dynamics or there bike It usually starts out by theme giving there height weight and where most of there riding takes place. It is usually followed by "What would be a good starting point for me". The answer is almost always the same "You need to set it up for you. Take it to a pro to dial it in for ya". No shit!!! Why do you think that thread was started? Set it up for your self? Why do you think the question was asked? The settings (for your self) is the result of the tips of the question asked. You can find all of the locations of the adjusters in your owners manual. This is what I have. I am 5'9" 160lbs. lest start with the sag. Measure your front sag, and if you have less than 25mm (track) or 30mm (street), adjust your preload to obtain the appropriate value. I like mine at about 30mm on the street my self. Measure your front sag, and if you have less than 25mm (track) or 30mm (street), adjust your preload (Brass nuts on top of forks) to obtain the appropriate value. Otherwise, leave the adjuster as is, or set it to the factory-recommended setting for now. Record all the numbers as well as the preload setting. Setting your sag is a fairly simple procedure, usually you will need a couple friends to help and you will need to dressed in full gear for proper measurements. Extend the front suspension. Measure from a fixed point such as the clip on mount to the axle clamp. Call this number A. Next sit on your bike in a normal riding position and have your helper hold the bike without adding any of their weight to it. Your second helper should push down on the fork, let it extend slowly and then re-measure as before. Mark this measurement as B.
    Next, extend the fork by hand, let it slowly settle, and re-measure. Mark this measurement as C. Halfway between B and C is where your suspension would settle if there were no friction in the system. Static sag can be calculated as follows: sag=A-(C+B)/2. Repeat this process to determine the rear sag. If you have too much or too little sag, add more or less preload.
    A general base setting for this is around 30-35mm for street riding and 25-30mm for the track.
    The important measurement for preload is the rear sag setting. For street use, you should aim for 30mm of sag; if you're heading for the track, shoot for 25mm. Choose a value you want for rear sag, and adjust your rear preload accordingly. Write the sag numbers down along with your preload setting. I like mine about 40mm (Street). To figure rear sag you A. Find a solid point on the subframe to measure from a point on the swing arm in a vertical line. B.lift the rear off the ground from a point on the frame not swing arm to get full extension for the rear shock. C. With you on it. sag=A-(C+B)/2. . DAMPING
    Controlling your suspension
    With nothing to measure, finding a starting point for compression and rebound damping is a much more subjective process. As always, write down your current settings before changing anything.
    Find the total range of your compression adjusters by turning them out to the full soft position, then, counting the number of turns or clicks, turn them in until they stop. When dealing with damping adjusters, never crank them tight, otherwise you may damage internal components-just lightly seat them at the end of the range. Back each adjuster out one-half of its full range-for example, if you have 12 clicks of range, set the adjuster to six clicks out.
    Turn your rebound adjusters in to the full stiff position and push down on the suspension. Pretty slow coming back up, right? Now back the screws all the way out and try again. You should notice a big difference in the way the fork or shock extends-it may even come up quick enough to top out the suspension and then settle again, much like a car with blown shocks behaves over bumps.
    Set the rebound adjusters so that after you forcibly push down on the front or rear of the bike, it does not rise beyond its normal resting point when you let go. The bike should rise to the point where you started in approximately one second with just the force of the springs. If the front or back comes up quickly, overshoots and settles back down to its resting point, add more rebound. If you count more than a second for the bike to come up and stop, take out some rebound. Unsure? Err on the too-stiff side for now. In fact, dial in a couple extra clicks or a half-turn just to be certain. .RIDE
    You've got a base line, now dial it in
    Once you've written everything down as your starting point, you're ready to suit up and ride (finally!). Go out to your favorite quiet road or racetrack that most represents the type of riding you do and run a couple loops (laps if you're at the track) until you have a good idea of how your bike is behaving. You don't have to ride all out, but rather at a comfortable pace that lets you concentrate on what your bike and its suspension are doing.
    Experiment with the rebound damping first-which we know is most likely too stiff. Back the front adjuster out in an increment you can feel when you push on the bike at a stop (usually a half-turn or two clicks), and ride another loop. Write down the change and what you felt as a difference. Experiment until you find a setting that is obviously too soft, then backtrack to what you liked. Repeat for the shock's rebound. After every stop, take lots of notes-you'll want to refresh your memory at the end of the day.
    Now that you're happy with the rebound settings, it's time to play with the compression damping. Back the front adjusters out to three-fourths of their range (nine clicks of 12, using our previous example) and make a loop. Now try the other way and note the difference. Again, experiment until you find a setting with which you're comfortable, writing down each change and the results along the way. Repeat for the shock's compression adjustment. .OK as promised here is some numbers for a good starting point. As stated before I am 5'9" 160lbs My Spring Preload is 6 Lines exposed on each nut on top of the forks About (30 mm of sag for me) Front rebound Damping Is is 7 clicks out from full tight. Front Compression Damping Is 9 clicks from full tight. Rear preload 15mm from top of locknut to the top of exposed threads. Rear Compression Damping 8 clicks out from full tight. Rear Rebound Damping 4 clicks out from full tight. I am very happy with my settings they feel good in the twisty back roads. it tips in very fast and sharp for me. I t can be a little bumpy on the hwy at legal speeds But very stable when throwing caution the the wind at jail worthy speeds. Try this set up and adjust from there whit some trouble shooting. Here is some issues causes and possible adjustments to remedy them. .

    * LACK OF REBOUND DAMPING (FORK)
    * The fork offers a supremely plush ride, especially when riding straight up. When the pace picks up, however, the feeling of control is lost. The fork feels mushy, and traction "feel" is poor.
    * After hitting bumps at speed, the front tire tends to chatter or bounce.
    * When flicking the bike into a corner at speed, the front tire begins to chatter and lose traction. This translates into an unstable feel at the clip-ons.
    * As speed increases and steering inputs become more aggressive, a lack of control begins to appear. Chassis attitude and pitch become a real problem, with the front end refusing to stabilize after the bike is countersteered hard into a turn.

    * TOO MUCH REBOUND DAMPING (FORK)
    * The ride is quite harsh--just the opposite of the plush feel of too little rebound. Rough pavement makes the fork feel as if it's locking up with stiction and harshness.
    * Under hard acceleration exiting bumpy corners, the front end feels like it wants to "wiggle" or "tankslap." The tire feels as if it isn't staying in contact with the pavement when on the gas.
    * The harsh, unforgiving ride makes the bike hard to control when riding through dips and rolling bumps at speed. The suspension's reluctance to maintain tire traction through these sections erodes rider confidence.

    * LACK OF COMPRESSION DAMPING (FORK)
    * Front end dive while on the brakes becomes excessive.
    * The rear end of the motorcycle wants to "come around" when using the front brakes aggressively.
    * The front suspension "bottoms out" with a solid hit under heavy braking and after hitting bumps.
    * The front end has a mushy and semi-vague feeling--similar to lack of rebound damping.

    * TOO MUCH COMPRESSION DAMPING (FORK)
    * The ride is overly harsh, especially at the point when bumps and ripples are contacted by the front wheel.
    * Bumps and ripples are felt directly; the initial "hit" is routed through the chassis instantly, with big bumps bouncing the tire off the pavement.
    * The bike's ride height is effected negatively--the front end winds up riding too high in the corners.
    * Brake dive is reduced drastically, though the chassis is upset significantly by bumps encountered during braking.

    * LACK OF REBOUND DAMPING (REAR SHOCK)
    * The ride is plush at cruising speeds, but as the pace increases, the chassis begins to wallow and weave through bumpy corners.
    * This causes poor traction over bumps under hard acceleration; the rear tire starts to chatter due to a lack of wheel control.
    * There is excessive chassis pitch through large bumps and dips at speed and the rear end rebounds too quickly, upsetting the chassis with a pogo-stick action.

    * TOO MUCH REBOUND DAMPING (REAR SHOCK)
    * This creates an uneven ride. The rear suspension compliance is poor and the "feel" is vague.
    * Traction is poor over bumps during hard acceleration (due to lack of suspension compliance).
    * The bike wants to run wide in corners since the rear end is "packing down"; this forces a nose-high chassis attitude, which slows down steering.
    * The rear end wants to hop and skip when the throttle is chopped during aggressive corner entries.

    * LACK OF COMPRESSION DAMPING (REAR SHOCK)
    * There is too much rear end "squat" under acceleration; the bike wants to steer wide exiting corners (since the chassis is riding rear low/nose high).
    * Hitting bumps at speed causes the rear to bottom out, which upsets the chassis.
    * The chassis attitude is affected too much by large dips and G-outs.
    * Steering and control become difficult due to excessive suspension movement.

    * TOO MUCH COMPRESSION DAMPING (REAR SHOCK)
    * The ride is harsh, though not quite as bad as too much rebound; the faster you go, the worse it gets, however.
    * Harshness hurts rear tire traction over bumps, especially during deceleration. There's little rear end "squat" under acceleration.
    * Medium to large bumps are felt directly through the chassis; when hit at speed, the rear end kicks up.
     
  5. But IMO a mod section is a must
     
  6. Craig

    Craig Administrator Staff Member

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    Got a few things in plan, the knowledge base will shortly be changing. The difficult thing is updating it with more information. 675.net has a lot of content, but it would be wrong of us to copy it. Once the new system is in place hopefully we can get some informative 675.cc driven content. :D
     
  7. I have a how-to guide on changing chain and sprockets, without a splitter/rivetter tool complete with pics I am happy to post if you want it.
     
  8. Craig

    Craig Administrator Staff Member

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    That would be superb, I'm currently trying to sort a section out for a "How to", the more information the better! :)
     

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