Hi All, I'm new here but picked up a 2009 Daytona 675 last week and with the weather being so perfect have been riding it everyday for the past week! I've started hearing/feeling a few things that I didn't hear before, or maybe they have just started, I don't know! Firstly when the bikes in neutral I can feel a difference in the vibration between the clutch being in and the clutch being out, it's not a significant difference but now I've noticed it I can't not feel it. Anybody else experienced this? Is it just the clutch is engaged and more parts are spinning? Second thing is what level to fill the oil to? Done an oil and filter change today and filled it to 3/4 of the way up between the two marks on the dipstick, let the bike idle for a few minutes then checking the dipstick again. I have a faint memory of reading somewhere while researching Daytonas before buying that you want to fill right up to the top level on the dipstick? Third, Went for a little pootle after doing the oil change and noticed a new noise that may have been there all along but I'm only just noticing it. When going along between 4k-8k rpm and keeping constant rpm or slightly engine breaking there is a sort of fluttering/tapping kind of noise, I'd be hard pressed to give you a location it's coming from, I wouldn't say its from a particular side of the bike, but I'm deaf in one ear so my directional hearing isn't the best! Could this be linked to the above and I just need to fill up to the max dipstick line? Lastly, I've read on this forum not to fill the coolant to the max line, but to just fill to the min line? Haynes manual says to fill to the max line? Sorry for all the questions! Hoping people here with a little more experience with the sweet triples can shed some light! Also, many Daytonas in Devon/Cornwall?
Welcome in! 1st - You will notice a little difference with the clutch in or out, shouldn't be anything to worry about. 2nd - warm the bike up and then let it be for 5mins, then check the oil. Bike should be upright and the dipstick screwed all the way in to check. I run mine on the top line 3rd - Really hard to pin noises like that down without hearing it personally, assume yours still has the intake flap in it? Could be that? Otherwise fit a really loud exhaust and don't worry! 4th - Fill the coolant to the min line when the bike is cold, that's enough! Anymore and it'll wet itself. Other will be along shortly that maybe able to help more on the noises!
If you find a cause of the fluttering noise let me know! I thought it was kind of a ticking noise. There’s a few threads on the forum about it. I now can’t be sure if my hearing is now over exaggerating the sound because I’ve noticed it. Going to get it checked out anyway just to be sure.
All good info from 675peggy I was starting to get paranoid about the gearbox noise on my 13 plate 675R when the clutch is out, especially when just started, but then i had a test ride on a brand new Aprillia RSV4 RF which sounded far louder, now i don't worry about it. Regarding the oil level they did change the dipstick length and the advice in the manual at some point, not sure if that was pre 09 though, someone will confirm. I know my 06 bike used to use a bit of oil though, never had to top up my new one ever. How about some pics of the bike
Well its a sunny Sunday morning so I'm sure I can find a photo op today! Mind eased a little about the noises, thanks for all the info. Just studied the manual a little more closely and it does say fill to the top line
Welcome to our friendly little forum JamesRae. I believe there has been more reported engine failure due to overfilling oil than running low on this engine type. The coolant level catches most new owners out, because (as Peggy pointed out above ) anything above the Min mark will be ejected when warm, irrespective of any instructions to the contrary. Hth.
Well here it is! So on the oil note, now filled to just below the max mark, about 1mm below. I guess this isn’t overfilled?
Welcome. I have the same bike in those colours running nearly 140bhp. A must is crash protectors as i am sure has been said. Enjoy as its a amazing machine. Only thing from my experience with mine is the subframe on the exhuast side doesnt like the heat as mine has bubbled abit (but it could be my S3 lol)
Interested to know how you are getting 140bhp out of one, do you have a list of work/mods? Is that at the wheel or at the crank?
Over optimistic dyno perhaps? Some dyno operators never, I repeat never, tweak the dyno settings to please their customers with an over optimistic reading. Even BSS bikes (MAP Embassy Team) of that vintage (08-09) weren't making that kind of power (140 bhp). Not saying it's impossible (much) but it will be pretty expensive. So forgive me for taking the above claim with a pinch of salt. Speaking to Graham Gowland at Cadwell a few years back (2014..??), the Smiths 675 sounded like it had a different firing order as it came howling past and all he said to me was "over 135" and tipped me a wink.
I know 1 guy who had a bss engine with receipt saying it was 140 bhp funny thing is he got his money back after it was tested on a friend of mines dyno 125bhp it was showing I wont name the company but lets just say its a big company with strong links to our beloved daytonas the dyno that it tested at 125 bhp had my standard 1 showing 113 we're a lot more honest up north
That was at the crank. The exact number was 137.9bhp and 126.2bhp at the wheels Mods are: KnN filter Iriduim plugs for the S3 Air flap removed from intake and disabled Full S3 Arrow system so no cat or exup valve Smaller velocity stacks AS3 blue hose kit Custom remap No internal works done. All the remap was done at DWR motorcycles. I have the print out to prove and doubt. He even told us that my SE makes more power the his racing R. As for cost. The bike owes me inc buying it almost 9k. But is super reliable and fast enough for me
That's very good power with no internal mods, as have been stated, the supersport boys struggled to get those numbers and they had a fully blue printed engine, heavy skim on the head, race kit cams/valves and a high rev limit. Maybe yours has had some internal work before you bought it? Difficult thing with dynos is they all read differently so unless it's the same day, same Dyno you really can't compare. As long as it doesn't blow up and it feels quick/sounds good it doesn't really matter!
I dont think its had any internal work the last owner didnt say so. It is v rapid too. Revs well n rides even better unlike me lol. Just need t max my speed out now n beat my last top run on it.
Oh did the Mallory park this year. Was a bust coz of the weather n one of our group come off her zxr400
imho Readings from dyno jet dynos aren’t consistent You will get more honest readings from a dynostar dyno HTH
rather remarkable horse power had mine built by jon trigger now deceased shame great bloke did not make 135 bhp
