The only two real faults I've had with the Daytona over the last 11 yrs, excluding a battery failure which doesn't really count, have been to do with the gearshift. Lost downshifts at 16k miles due to a worn pivot plate, and at 22k miles the return spring pin snapped on the gearchange shaft, both failures left me stuck in one gear but managed to get home. Replaced the pivot plate at 16k miles and the complete gearchange shaft at 22k miles with another new pivot plate. The bike is currently at just over 29k miles so probably well before another possible failure but thought I'd get in early with some preventative maintenance, and while the new OEM parts are still available. Pivot plate & detent wheel kit, return spring, detent spring, circlips, shaft oil seal, C washer and nut for the clutch, lower gasket set. Clutch cover removed, I usually grease both faces when fitting so luckily not a trace of gasket stuck to the crankcase and only a few bits on the cover. Pressure plate removed, press the plates together by hand when loosening the centre nut with the impact, then take them out complete with the inner basket. Bolt fitted to lock the split anti-backlash gears before removing the outer basket (not locked well enough it later turned out), couldn't pull the centre bearing spacer out with a magnet but luckily had pliers that would grip the two protrusions, this is to move the basket over to clear the crankcase. The marks in the outer drum "fingers" are where I'd smoothed down grooves worn from the plates last time, still feel smooth, no grooves. Outer basket removed to expose the gearchange mechanism on the left, disconnect the ball joints on the gear lever, the arm and E clip on the shaft, unhook the detent spring at the top and the complete gearchange shaft can be pulled out. If you are just replacing the pivot plate you can remove the circlip on the end and do it in situ. Small amount of wear on the left hand bearing surface but not enough to warrant replacing the shaft. Glad I decided to change the pivot plate now, this is wear from 7k miles versus the new one, both upshift and downshift edges worn, bike was shifting ok though. Detent wheel as expected showing no wear but replaced as I'd bought the kit, new one on the right quite a bit different, especially the small chamfer where the pivot plate engages. Can't really go wrong fitting as its dowelled, used medium strength threadlock. Next job, return spring pin, this is rivetted to the shaft plate and previously sheared off at 22k miles, this replacement shaft has therefore only done 7k miles but wanted to remove the possibility of it happening again. Seen somebody on youtube with the same failure on a Tiger drill and tap the pin and bolt it to the shaft plate, that was after it had sheared but decided to do mine beforehand to remove the possibility of it happening again. Ground down then drilled out the rivetted section, drilled and tapped the pin M5, Luckily had some Nord Lock ramp style locking washers from a previous employment, with the ramps facing each other they are virtually guaranteed not to loosen and from experience can be difficult to loosen even with tools, together with high strength genuine Loctite, not Chinese ebay stuff, I'm confident this will stay in place. Can't see the ramp faces on the locking washers in that picture but this is how they look. Shaft seal on LH side wasn't leaking but replaced anyway, came out easily by hand. Back in together with new springs and circlips, made sure it was shifting gear and indicating the correct gear on the display before refitting the clutch. Refitting the clutch didn't go smoothly, anybody who's done this job knows that the clutch outer basket is partly behind the crankcase and can't be removed or installed without removing the centre bearing/spacer first to allow clearance to move it over, and if everything isn't perfectly aligned it can be a pig to get the centre bearing spacer back in with its tight tolerance. Usually the issue is the split spring loaded anti- backlash gears, if they are slightly out of phase it won't engage close enough with the main crank gear and nothing will line up. Unfortunately my m6 bolt didn't do the job well enough, both gears seemed in line where the bolt was but 180 degrees around the basket they were slightly out, after hours of struggling tried rotating the basket so the alignment bolt was next to the crank gear and eventually got it engaged with the oil pump drive pegs and the centre bearing spacer in. New C washer and nut fitted, just tighten it up with the impact now, its not coming loose with the nut staked to the shaft. Everything else went back together easily, used some Autoglym tyre gel on the covers as they'd faded a bit, came up ok. Oil and filter change with Motul 7100 Not had chance for a test ride yet but changing gears ok on the paddock stand. With the major top end service last year and the gearshift now hopefully future proofed it should be basic services and trouble free riding for a good few years now, although I always seem to find "extra" jobs that probably don't need to be done to keep me busy.
You wouldn't have said that if you'd seen me struggling to get the clutch back in. Speaking of the clutch, measured the friction plates, all around 2.96mm - 2.97mm. Same as last measurement taken at 22k miles New is 3.0mm and wear limit is 2.90mm , so only 30-40% worn after 29k miles on British congested roads is not bad going, steel plates all in good condition.
