Bike failed to start this morning in a familiar way. It would turn over once or twice not fire up and reset. The bike has an upgraded RR fitted by Triumph a few years ago and a new yausa battery fitted in April. I'll need to charge and test it once I get back home but what am I looking for? 1) 13-15V on the RR output with the engine on 2) 20V between the 3 alternator wires at idle 3) 70V between the 3 alternator wires at 5k rpm, 4) anything else? Also, can I do the above tests on the on the plugs of the RR or do I have to lift the tank? One more thing, as Triumph were so generous to replace the RR in the past... Has anyone had a their RR replaced twice as a good will gesture?
Think I've got the page from the service manual saved on my computer at home - probably what you said above. Let me know if you don't have the full service manual. Don't forget CPS is the new RR. https://www.675.cc/675/threads/pulse-generator-only-replacement-cps-crank-position-sensor.20693/
Thanks for the link, not sure if it'll be the CPS as the bike sounded very weak on startup (2 spins and it reseted). I'll get it charged up and measure everything. I've only got the standard manual, if it's not in there, I'll be grateful for the pic. I've dug up my old thread about the first failure of the original RR and it behaved identically today (maybe sounded even like having less juice today). The vid is from a few years back when the original RR failed.
I was looking at this seller for something else, saw he had an RR http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Triumph-S...532423?hash=item2a6d9b7a87:g:o0MAAOSwOVpXcO6z Is £62 a good price? - obviously full investigations required first.
Ok, looks like I have a different issue. I've removed the RR and with the multimeter set to diode I've measured "something" between the + and - terminals and the 3 phase terminals. I was getting results of approx 130 in one direction and 0 in the other. Also a result of 500 from the other terminal. Moreover, the results (within a small tolerance) were consistent. Next were the 3 stator wires, between all 3 of them, I've measured a resistance of 1.3Ohm, which is about as low as my meter will display. Then I've measured the resistance between the 3 phase wires and the bike earth and got a loud BEEEEEP from my multimeter. Looks like I've got all 3 wires shorting to ground At that point I called it a day as the battery needed charging. Is there any point testing anything else? All I can think of is to start the bike up tomorrow and measure the voltage on the 3 phase wires, which will confirm a stator failure. Couple of questions: - should I check anything else or can we assume the stator is faulty? - can I start the bike without the RR to test the voltage on the 3 phase wires? - where to get a stator from? (Electrexworld at £144, are they better?) or second hand?
Just on the stator front I replaced mine with a Ricks Motorsports Electrics one. Supposedly better than the OEM one and a bit cheaper, if I remember rightly? I paid £133. Worth looking into...
I've managed to source an RR from a 2011 bike, unfortunately the unit that arrived has leads coming out of the RR unit and a SH820AC part number on it. Is the RR that triumph did the recall for? I'm debating whether to fit it or send it back...
Thanks, It's the other way around in my case. I've had the upgraded RR but I've been sent what looks like an older one. Whereas the loom is already in place, the bolts to fit the RR are set wider apart, means I can't use it. Thanks again though.
The one with the bracket is the "old" one, upgraded by Triumph under the recall. Where do later bikes have their RRs fitted? This one looks chunkier, not sure if it'll fit behind the shock?
Thanks for the photos. The new one does fit behind the shock because that's where it's mounted on my street triple.
That's only because the Street Triple has no fairings. But you raise a good point>>>>> Does the Street suffer from the issue as much as the Daytona???
